ANTARCTICA
Antarctica Feb-March 2018
We finally made it to our seventh continent – and we’ve clearly saved the best for last. We were hesitant to traverse some of the worst ocean passages in the world, but this trip has far exceeded all our expectations – and we both agree we would go back in a heartbeat. We were also hesitant to extend the trip to include the South Georgia and Falkland Islands – but, having now been there, I know now I would have missed SO much, and well worth the extra days at sea.
First of all, the scenery in Antarctica was simply other-worldly. We’ve seen glaciers before, but nothing of this magnitude. And the super-large “tabular” icebergs were jaw-dropping, some the size of city blocks and decades old – and we’re only seeing 20% of the mass above the water line. Similarly, we’ve seen lots of wildlife before, but nothing came close to the sheer numbers we mingled with – and though we tried to keep our distance, they were not so inclined. Standing on the beach among tens of thousands of king penguins making their braying sounds – it was simply one of the most moving nature experiences of my life. Whales were more scarce this trip, but we did have a Right Whale hang around our ship – and they are extremely rare. Visiting the various rookeries was great fun –and we visited with almost all the penguin species – Magellanic, Chinstrap, Adelie, Gentoo, Macaroni, King – and the “rock stars” of the family – the Southern Rockhoppers (see if you can figure out which ones they are). Many of the chicks were well on their way to getting rid of their grey fluffy plumage and filling their bellies with krill before they head off into the cold Antarctic waters.
We also loved seeing the large Wandering and Royal Albatrosses, the largest flying birds on the planet, who were constantly flying around our ship, skimming across the water. Their rookery in the Falklands (shared with the Rockhoppers) was amazing to sit next to, as the parents would come flying in with breakfast. And it was so amazing to see the chicks pester them until the parent opens his/her beak so they could go inside for goodies.
It was also time of year for the young fur seals to grow up enough to reach a point where they can join the adults further north. They are everywhere and incredibly curious. Great fun to hang with them…each one as cute as the next.
Of course, the continent is rich in history, and it was incredible to visit places we have read about in the tales of the explorers. In Grytviken we visited Ernest Shackleton’s gravesite, and the old whaling station he finally reached in order to rescue his crew – which is now populated mostly by fur seal pups and penguins.
Of course, it is also saddening to see the result of climate change, as the glaciers are steadily receding. It is also estimated that almost 80% of the penguin population will be gone within the next 75 years. So, all in all, I honestly felt honored and privileged to be there at this time. Clearly it was one of the most humbling and inspiring experiences of my life and one for which I will be ever grateful to have experienced it.