Buenos Aires - October 2006
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
The adventure begins….
Greetings from the South! And don’t cry for me, Argentina! Linda and I left Atlanta on Wednesday evening, October 18, 2006 for a stopover in Houston…our flight was delayed and they held the plane for us in Houston, scrambling through the airport in our little electric cart, and only hitting two or three old ladies on the way….but we quickly settled into our luxurious first class seats, as we took flight for the south…The flight was a real hardship, what with our reclining seats and footrests and 12 movie channels and a very nice dinner….and in the first test of our traveling compatibility, we actually both chose the same movie – The Talented Mr. Ripley, which we barely finished, well, actually, shortly after our scrumptious dinner and champagne, we fell asleep at the end…
Thursday, October 19:
We awoke in the morning (Thursday) and had a delightful breakfast, wondering, as my father used to say, what the poor people were doing this morning…including the peons in the back of the plane….well, we got through immigration, although we had to scale a large wall to do so…those Republicans’ influence is so far-reaching….
We made it to our hotel, the Hyatt Palacio Duhau, which was spectacular. It is a former family residence converted into a five-star hotel, abutting the Vatican Embassy (I asked for an audience with the Pope – or at least a ride in the popemobile – to no avail). I think there are about 15 rooms in the palace side of the hotel; we have never seen anyone on our floor. And the service here is the best I’ve ever experienced – food, personnel, small touches, etc….anyway, we settled in, well, not exactly, as our luggage didn’t make it to Buenos Aires, but Continental provided us with some seed money to begin our shopping extravaganza…we walked around the neighborhood to shop, but ended up having lunch at an outdoor Italian restaurant (about half of Buenos Aires are Italians-viva Italiano!) and started our road of destruction and degradation with our first glass of Malbec, a magnificent a (English: “a good buzz”) for which Argentina is famous (who knew?). So we went back to the hotel for some R&R and then headed out again in earnest for more shopping to get our “essentials.” We made our way to the Galeria Pacifico, which is a converted something-or-other that was gorgeous – as were the clothes. We were able to find our way to the Christian LaCroix store (a distant relation of Christian Dior), where the beginning of the damage began…Outfits for Bill and Meez Leendah (as she is affectionately called here) were forthcoming, since, and it was true this time – we didn’t have a THING to wear! Back to the Palacio (as we natives call it) to put on the Ritz…they have a delightful fresh flowers area in the hotel, so I selected some large, fragrant flowers for Meez Leendah…Once dudded up, we taxied (you can go anywhere in the city really for around $3 at most) to a recommended restaurant, Sucre, which in Spanish means “sucker” - but anyway we arrived around 9 for our reservation and the place was empty! But very beautiful and modern, with a bar that had a wall 30 foot high of bottles lit from behind…you could also see the kitchen area where suckling pigs were roasting… we were seated and the sommelier recommended an exquisite Malbec – Enrique Foster 2002 (we’re hoping we can find it in the States!). Anyway, we had a wonderful ceviche with a Bloody Mary sauce, suckling pig (when in Rome…), and red tuna…By the time we finished our meal the place was packed – it turns out the Argentinians are quite the night owls, eating well after 9 at night…Finished up, and went to a club near our hotel, the Gran Bar, but it wasn’t that gran, so we walked home in the light spring evening. The weather here has been simply perfect – it’s springtime here, - so far we’ve had virtually cloudless days in the 80s and 70 at night with a light breeze. Anyway we got home around 1 a.m. or so and collapsed…
Viernes (Friday) October 20
I got up early and went to the business center to do some work for a client and checking emails. Of course the internet is universal, but the keyboard here is a little different, so that took a little getting used to….I met up with Sleeping Beauty and we had a delicious breakfast out on the patio…then off to, yep you guessed it – mingling with the indigenous peoples – or, as some know it - shopping! Well, we still had no clothes and we are planning to go tango-ing, so what else could we do? As my grandson Jacob says: We can’t resist!! So off to Suipacha St. to the Tango tiendas (‘shops’ for the Spanish-challenged). We settled into one and spent the better part of the morning interacting with the folks there, trying on clothes (technically, Meez Leendah tried on clothes), and we both got some zapatos (English: sexy shoes) which we could watch them make in the back of the store. I ended up with a pair that are red and black – and very gay!…Well, we left there knowing that, even though we didn’t know a step of Argentine Tango, we could certainly look the part…We then walked over to Avenue Florida (English: Florida Street) which is basically a pedestrian mall of epic proportions, filled with tiendas, especially of leather (English: leather). We hit on one shop, Ashanti, where they LOVED Meez Leendah. I think our clerk Gaston really loved the fact Meez Leendah liked everything they had there – but I had to convince Meez Leendah that, indeed, it was alright to spend money on herself – and to expand her wardrobe beyond black and camouflage….so we walked off with a baby blue furry jacket, a cashmere/fox wrap, a sweater vest, and small jacket, not to mention a tan purse…. Trying to keep up (foolish me), I at least bought a chocolate-colored leather blazer of lamb (by the way, PETA persons don’t do well here in Argentina…) Anyway, as a parting gift, they gave us each a belt…We crawled our way back to the Palacio (ok, we took a taxi), where we just made the buffet in the other side of the hotel – a close call! (Behind the palace is a cascading terrace with tables to sit and eat under white umbrellas, and then a new hotel addition, which is about a twelve story building - where the less fortunate stay). Actually,Meez Leendah’s friend Heather, who lives here, had recommended we stay here – and so we requested the Palace side, but she said that of all the people she had told this to, none had actually GOTTEN the Palace side…so we are feeling quite fortunato (English: “pretty damn lucky”)…Anyway, the buffet (do you sense a food thing happening here?) was splendiferous – with meats and cheeses, and unidentifiable sauces and spreads, stuffed baby artichokes, grilled shrimp, well, you get the picture….and of course, a Malbec for good measure…Well, we had time to clean up (ah, luggage! – although we decided it would have been much better to arrive without anything and buy whatever we needed). You see they devalued the peso about five years ago, so the exchange rate is 3 pesos to one dollar, which makes everything basically, as Meez Leendah says, well, free.
So off we taxied to Cappello Studios on Anchorena St,, which is an old building with various rooms for dancing. In Room 3 (English: 3) we met Maxi Cappello, son of the great dancer Senor Cappello, and Maxi’s dance partner, the lovely Maria. As you can see from the photo, both of them were gorgeous…well, let’s just say that this is the first time my female instructor told me to please look at my feet! Regardless, we had a great time learning the first steps in the Argentine Tango…We scheduled another lesson for Domingo (English: Sunday). Then back to the Palacio for a hot bath and then went downstairs to the Vinoteca (English: “lots of wines to drink”), where we had the best champagne we have ever tasted (Schlumberger – look for it in your local deli?), and were hosted by the mastre frommagger (English: “The Cheese Lady”), Maria (you can’t go wrong here calling a woman Maria), where we tasted seven or eight delightful cheeses, from Manchego, to Roquefort, to Imbroglio (not related to Natalie) – and others too difficult to spell or pronounce…anyway, Linda’s friend Heather finally showed up so we were forced to have more champagne and Heather downed the cheese remaining…then we walked around the corner to La Cabana de Something-or-Other, which is famous for its beef, which I skillfully deducted as we walked in, passing by two stuffed cows of mythical proportions…we had a simply delightful evening with a new Malbec (Heather is a recovering sommelier), a veal carpaccio and veal sweetbreads for starters, and Patagonian lamb and rib eye – all of which were to die for…And it turned out they gave us certificates that we could look up on the Internet to see the history of the particular cow or lamb we were eating, complete with pictures (“Now here is little fluffy…”). I found it technologically and gastronomically intriguing, but Meez Leendah found it repugnant – but continued eating nonetheless…..I guess ignorance IS bliss….We then dragged our stuffed carcasses to Milion, a hip club with a great little bar where we were forced to drink Mojitos, and Heather’s friend Tim the German met us…but Meez Leendah and I left our younger friends to drink the night away as we were anxious to see our first milonga (English: “tango salon where everyone dances better than you do”), so we taxied off to Salon Canning on Scalabrini Ortiz in the barrio (English: ‘hood’) known as Palermo Hollywood (we did not see any movie stars though…) What a scene – the dance floor in the middle was packed with dancers tangoing cheek to cheek (and other parts), and lots sitting around at tables around the outside of the room. The funny thing was the custom of how they did the dancing: when a song ended, couples would stop and stand there and talk to each other, then a new song would start and they would continue talking, then one couple would start dancing, then another, and then they all would join in. They repeated this several times and then a Beatles song would come on and they all quickly emptied the floor….then the DJ stopped the song (“Michelle, my belle, I will say the on –“) then back with another tango, and the floor would fill up again. I’m thinking, boy, the DJ blew it…then after a few more tangos, he would play a different Beatles song and the same thing would happen. Then it dawned on me (I’m a little slow..) that the Beatles song was the way they told people to get off the floor and let others have a chance…I felt sorry for Paul (the cute Beatle), what with the messy divorce going on, and then to find out your songs are being used to CLEAR the dance floor, well, how humiliating…anyway, we decided against dancing ourselves…whether it was good judgment or the Malbec wearing off… anyway, we taxied home (“Vaya a Pasados y Montevideo por favor!”) and…collapsed again!
Sabado (Saturday), Oct. 21
I got up to workout, but decided to lay down a minute and think about what exercises I would do – and woke up hours later…oh well, I am already beginning to look like Marlon Brando: The Later Years…maybe surgery will help upon my return…So we had another delightful breakfast on the hotel patio and then headed off by foot to the Recoleta Cemetery and the outdoor craft market there…well, about a block away from the hotel we passed a little area of shops, the Galeria Alvear, where we just had to take a peek….purses, scarves, and wallets later, we moved on another whole half a block, passing by the Alvear Palace Hotel, one of the most famous in Buenos Aires…
well, we did not actually PASS BY the Hotel, as, yep you guessed it, there were shops in the lobby area…well we just had to have some cool stuff from the vintage store and another called Feather Pink, and Meez Leendah got some cool sunglasses….well, we finally made it to the Cemetery where, bless the dead, they had a Saturday outdoor Mercado (English: “still another place to spend your dinero”), where local craftsmen/women sell their wares. We had a grand time going by the booths in a crowded space, purchasing things like jewelry, scarves, and other nick-knacks, and conversing briefly with the artists…we then walked up to the Design Center for lunch at an outdoor café, Frappe, where we enjoyed some nice wine and the local beer, Quilmes. Then back to the hotel for a nap, and then some window shopping – well, I wish it was just window shopping…of course, we just HAD to have that cute Armani scarf for the evening. Nothing for Linda of course….
We cleaned up for dinner and went to a restaurant that we didn’t like, so left and went back to the hotel for some more champagne, toasting Meez Leendah’s birthday (she tells me she’s finally turned 40!), and then out on the hotel patio for an exquisite dinner, with some very delicious Patagonian lamb…I think Meez Leendah had a special and memorable birthday, company notwithstanding…
Domingo (Sunday), Oct. 22
Once again we had our breakfast on the hotel patio and then headed off to the Antiques Market in the Plaza Dorrego. This was a delightful collection of various items in little booths – old jewelry, bottles, leather goods, knives, shoes, books, photos, coins, what-have-you. Unfortunately, we had brought mucho dinero (English:you don’t want to know), so we were prepared to bargain - and leave heavily laden with goods from the indigenous peoples…well, we did our jobs well, almost single-handedly uplifting the Argentine economy…
Meez Leendah acquired some antique jewelry, more purses, and old book, some old photos, and we only had enough money for me to buy an old seltzer bottle….we also enjoyed the tango dancers performing for the crowd…It was a beautiful day and people were very friendly.
I personally was left pulling out every peso, dollar, or whatever we could bargain with. On the final item I was ready to pay and realized it was our last peso, so the vendoro (English: “man who smiles while taking ALL your dinero”) graciously dropped the agreed price by ten pesos so we wouldn’t have to walk home…so back at the hotel we grabbed a quick lunch with a scrumptious crab sandwich with an avocado mousse, Caesar salad, champagne and ice cream –it was tough to work our way through that! Unfortunately on the way back to our room we had to walk down the underground walkway to the other side of the hotel. I say unfortunately because it turns out they have this little kiosk area where, guess what, they are happy to tako your dinero. But they did have some simply beautiful items, which, as I said before, were practically FREE! An hour later we hauled our heavily laden bags up to our room, replete with candlesticks, mate bowls (for drinking mate tea), wine holders, wallets, belts, purses….well, you get the picture…
We then barely had time to freshen upo and heado outo to our second tango lesson with Maxi and Maria. We were tested on our first lesson (yes, Maria, we DID practice!) In addition we learned the hook (in Maria-speak: hooook), ochos, rocking chairs, and sexy poses (English: oh, mama!). Then back to the Palacio to get ready for our big night out at Rojo Tango, which is a cabaret style room in the lobby of the new Faena Hotel. The lobby was simply spectacular; they had one dining room that was all white (I mean ALL – chairs, floors, walls) with large unicorn heads mounted on the walls…then into the cabaret which was a small intimate setting – and we had a table center stage front – boy, did we feel like VIPs…We had – surprise - champagne, Malbec, and a spectacular dinner – and then the show, which was beyond description, but of course, I’ll try. They had four couples, a female singer (who was the most statuesque, beautiful woman I have ever seen), and a male singer (who didn’t do much for me). But everyone was extremely talented, with beautiful outfits and the dancing and singing was simply overwhelming – and all right under our little gringo noses….
Lunes (Monday), Oct. 23
Shucks – breakfast out on the patio again! Then we went to the Palermo Soho district which is know for, yep you guessed it: shopping! No really, I mean serious shopping here. It started out as a poor neighborhood, and then the young fashion designers began buying small storefronts for their designs, then after that the young chefs began to do the same thing with new restaurants. So it is truly an incredible creative journey with the young talented Argentines – and of course, it’s all, well, practically FREE! The concierge at the hotel marked out a path for us to follow of about six square blocks. Well, we hadn’t gone 25 feet out the door of our taxi when we found a great men’s store, where Linda finally let ME buy something – some stylin’ shirts, pants, watches and scarves….then we ran across this cute little store with this mannequin out front where we made more friends and again gave major support to the Argentine economy…well we finally stopped to have lunch and then on to more major transactions, particularly red-themed: red shoes, red boots, red leather jacket, etc. Mucho rojo! Fortunately, once again, I was able to convince Meez Leendah to spend money on herself – and that red was indeed an acceptable fashion color….
Then we had to rush back to the hotel because we had a major business appointment…okay, it was our appointment at the hotel spa, where Meez Leendah and I had wonderful massages. It was then time to rest up from our stressful day, after which we wandered down to the Oak Bar at the hotel where we enjoyed the music, champagne and some hot starters, followed by a trip out to a restaurant called Casa Cruz for one of the most stupendous settings and meals we have enjoyed…after our martinis, we were seated and they brought us a carrot crème brulee with mushrooms even before we ordered…then our dinner of beef carpaccio, red tuna w/ lentils, crab ravioli w/grapefruit&cream sauce…. ummmmm…then an incredible dessert of warm chocolate mousse over pumpkin ice cream. Unbelievable! We then ventured out to another tango salon, but were unable to find it, so we carried our stuffed and exhausted carcasses home….
Martes (Tuesday), Oct. 24
I actually worked out to start the day in the hotel’s spacious workout area where each cardio machine had its own TV…who knew Columbo could speak such good Spanish! Went to the business center to work on the Internet, then met up with Meez Leendah to have breakfast – yep out on the patio again…what a boring couple! Well, we decided to finish up our outlined path in Soho to see if we could spend even more dinero on must-have items…
Indeed we found even more exciting designer shops, with some red leather boots, dress shoes, and blue jeans for Meez Leendah and we found a store with some outlandish designer scarves, which, yep were practically free! In the p.m. we went back to the Palacio to clean up and head off for tango lesson #3 where we learned the Milango, which is a faster tango – and a lot of fun. We sadly said goodbye to Maria and Maxi, but vowed to return for more lessons on our return trip…Then back to the hotel to participate in the kick-off of Fashion&Art Week on Avenida Alvear (English: street where our hotel was). In about a six block area, they had rolled out red carpet on the sidewalks and all the stores had pieces of art on display, and served champagne and hors d’oevres. We also danced to the music from an outdoor stage in the street (Meez Leendah is SUCH a party animal!)
We then re-clothed ourselves (we gotta wear these new clothes SOMEtime), and went to dinner at a small little French restaurant called Elles, so small that they only had one waiter…we had a great Haut-Medoc wine, a cucumber salad with olives and yogurt, a delicious ceviche, and to-die-for entrees of duck and lamb – and TWO desserts this time: a mocha torte and a fruit soup with chocolate mousse – my oh my! Then we taxied to another tango salon, where we took in the sites, and then (drum roll, please), Meez Leendah and I danced our first public tango! And stayed out on the floor until they asked us to leave….actually, it was a great experience – doing the Argentine Tango in Argentina – WOW! At around 1 a.m. they had an exhibition by some tango dancers. A man and a woman did one tango, followed by another man and the same woman – and then the two men did a tango. It was ALL spectacular and inspiring.
Miercoles (Wednesday), Oct. 25
It rained last night and was still raining this morning, so we were forced to eat in the dining room, overlooking the patio…and then were picked up for our city tour on a small bus, complete with dropdown shades and screen for playing a DVD about various areas we were about to see….we saw the main government square where Eva Peron gave her famous speech (see left)before she died at the early age of 30,and the square where the mothers of those children missing from a government purge (in the 70s) still come every Thursday to protest and enquire where their children are….then on to Puerto Moderno, a newly developed area next to the shipping port (and where we went for the Rojo Tango (are you keeping up here?). Then to the La Boca area where we got out and took some great photos….what a beautiful area, with the bright colors and artwork on the building….It was so inspiring, Meez Leenda and I grabbed some locals and did our tango in the streets….
We then went to the La Boca futbol (English: soccer) stadium, home of Maradona and the oldest club in Buenos Aires…Finally we went to the Recoleta Cemetery which is truly remarkable. I took many, many photos, which I hope to show you at some point, but it was unlike anything we have ever seen, and this after spending a lot of time in the New Orleans cemeteries…so we saw Eva Peron’s crypt (and DIDN’T cry for her!) and then headed back to the hotel.
On the walk home we walked by a great little men’s leather store named Lopez Taibo where I got some fantastic brown lizard shoes and belt (oh my!) and a similar colored leather briefcase, which, well, were NOT practically free! And we returned to a store we briefly visited during the Fashion&Arts outing (still keeping up?). This store, called L/K/B/A, was a really neat experience…it started out with our being helped by a young lady who then brought in a young gentlemen who spoke better English, who it turned out was named Fabio (no, really), and as Meez Leendah got more and more things I found for her, more people got involved, all offering their opinions, and the owner helping to select items to accompany an item. Next thing I know a man is bringing us coffee, and well, it was a grand party, with everyone having a great old time…they invited us back in September for their special show and Fabio (no, really) offered to host us…
Then back to the hotel, where I brought Meez Leendah some champagne and cheese as we prepared for yet another fine evening of dining and dancing…once adorned, off we went to a quaint little restaurant named Bella Italia (English: I got your pasta right here!). This was basically a small house that was converted into a restaurant…we had a tender beef carpaccio, a fantastic veal rib, thumper (English:rabbit), and finished up with a warm chocolate and grapefruit mousse with chocolate logs…they rolled us out and poured us into a taxi and we headed off to another tango salon, where we danced the night away, including doing our first Milango. What fun! You know the amazing thing was this: we left at 2:30 a.m. and at that point no one had even left the dance. Buenos Aires is definitely a night town, with people eating late, staying up late – and starting later in the morning…
Thursdayo (Thursday), Oct. 26
Today was a clearer and cooler day, with breakfast again on the patio. Perfecto! Then we went back to the room to attack our worst nightmare: packing. Meez Leendah went into panic mode, but we upped her medication and got her back to earth…but basically we realized that the four large suitcases we brought were NOT going to solve THIS problem…so we headed off to the Patio Bullrich (home of our very first shopping outing – remember? Do try to keep up) to purchase – yep, you guessed it: suitcases! However, on the way there, actually across the street from the hotel, we saw this hidden little shop which had the work of the artist Perez Sanz. It was truly the most unique stuff we had seen in Buenos Aires, so of course, we just HAD to buy some stuff there. Particularly Meez Leendah got some stuff to decorate her new (hopefully) loft…While there we met a great professional couple from Los Angeles, with whom we traded travel/shopping/eating information, and as a result we walked two blocks to the second Perez Sanz store, where they had the most magnificent belts and jewelry, all hand-made by the artist…well, we finally made it to the Samsonite store, where we bought three more suitcases…and then returned to the room to see if we could contain the goodies….We then left our luggage with el bellhoppo and were forced to walk some more and then back to the hotel spa for a massage for Bill and a facial for Meez Leendah (oh the things we have to do…), then to the Vinoteca for more Schlumburger (remember the Schlumbergers?) and cheese and what is considered the best ham in the world – Pata Negra from Spain (Thanks, Maria!). I worked on the receipts for customs/tax free while Meez Leendah did some last minute re-packing. We then tipped all our great staff there and ordered a taxi mucho grande to take us to the airport….
There we provided great merriment to the tax-free personnel, who all raised their eyebrows at our stack of tax-free forms and consoled the woman who had to enter in all our purchases…
We had a relaxing trip home – and had the same flight attendant as on our trip down, Ms. Patty, whom frankly I never saw because she and Meez Leendah were up at the front comparing shopping tips and notes on Buenos Aires…in my solitude I happened to look into my wallet and discovered that all I was returning to the states with was twelve pesos! But we arrived safely into Houston and somehow they whisked us through customs without charging us a dime. Go figure! Then on to Atlanta where Jesse picked me up and we were somehow able to get the luggage in my car…and Meez Leendah stayed at the airport for her flight out to…well, who knows.
All in all, it was a truly unforgettable trip. We simply fell in love with Buenos Aires, and hope to return very soon. Perhaps you’ll consider coming with us. You’ll never find friendlier people, more beautiful goods, more original and tasty food offerings, and all this, well, practically FREE!