July 2-3, 2015
After an uneventful airplane trip from Brunswick to Atlanta to Amsterdam , we arrived in Edinburgh around noon and made our way to the Radisson Blue Hotel on the Miracle Mile in Old Edinburgh. As we entered we saw Becky and Win sitting at the bar having a drink. It was great to connect! We checked in, got settled, and met up with them at a bar across the street – The Mitre. After a local brew, we headed up the street to the Edinburg Castle, some of which has been around since the 12th century. It was a beautiful day and the street was extremely crowded with tourists on this people esplanade. Shops were mixed with pubs, all of which were colorfully painted and the pubs replete with lots of flowers. At the castle, I got us tickets and in we went. The main thing about the castle was that it afforded us great views of the city in all directions. We stopped at some point and got some great cappuccinos and scones. After a visit to the prison dungeon, we headed back down the Miracle Mile and went for a rest before dinner. After that, Linda and I headed out to have a martini at the nearby Balmoral Hotel, an old hotel built at the turn of the century.
We met up for dinner and walked up the street to the Ondine Restaurant, where I had made reservations. It was a very modern upscale second floor place – and the entrance had a large mural of bare-breasted mermaids (it is known for its seafood). We were seated at the bar for our drinks and then to our table. The meal was simply fantastic, with oyster s from different Scottish regions, and seafood from local waters. Delicious! Sated and tired, we dragged our tired bodies back to the hotel and collapsed.
July 4: Edinburgh: Day Two
I woke up early and headed out with my backpack and camera gear. I walked up the street to head up the walkway to Calton Hill, which gave a view of the Castle and much of Edinburgh. It was overcast and foggy, and great to be there all by myself. I was able to get some good photos of city, and the bay. I had great views of Arthur’s Seat – an odd shaped mountain/plateau shrouded in fog. I could see a great little cemetery behind a church with the Seat in the background, and another view with the Holyrood Palace. Great fun shooting. Then I started to head down, and ran into another old cemetery. This was a great little view. Unfortunately it started to drizzle, so I got out my camera cover and covered my camera pack. At this point the drizzle turned into a strong rain, and I knew the camera shoot was over. I had forgotten a hat, so I tried to cover my head with a camera cover, and headed back to the hotel. What a sight I must have been! By the time I got there I was pretty well soaked. But I dried off, and went downstairs with Linda for breakfast.
Then we headed out to find a bookstore for a fossil book, then walked toward Victoria Street. It just so happened we walked by the National Museum of Scotland. In we went. What a beautiful building – full of light, and many interesting exhibits. They had a special photography exhibition, which basically covered the history of photography, with lots of actual equipment and old photos. Would have loved to spend days studying this, but we kept moving on…Linda really enjoyed the exhibits on local geology and geologic history.
We then headed up Victoria Street to look at the shops and down to the Grassmarket area with the outdoor market. We also stopped in at a fossil/rock shop, but really didn’t see anything we had seen before. In fact. Linda enquired about selling THEM our fossils…It’s late afternoon by now, so we head up to the World’s End Pub for a draught and some hot lunch. Delicious food, tucked into a corner table – a wee bit crowded, but a nice stop for food and rest. Then it was back to the hotel to finish packing and grab a taxi to head out to the ship. We got there a little late so we missed the orientation, so we had to do a make-up session. But we got to our room and unpacked – which felt great. Then met Becky and Win in the Lounge for drinks and a welcome session. Then it was on to dinner at the restaurant. The service was good and the food was good as well. But mostly it was good to get back to the room and collapse – once more.
July 5: At sea on the Windstar’s Sea Legend
This was an at-sea day, so it was nice to get acclimated to the ship, and take a break. We even had a brief time out sunning on the deck, but it quickly became overcast and a bit chilly. But we had a great lunch and met at the Captain’s Lounge for drinks before dinner. Dinner with Becky and Win again was great.
July 6: Invergordon and Dornoch
We stopped at Invergordon as our first port. Becky had arranged for a driver ahead of time, so we headed north and stopped at Dunrobin Castle – a beautiful old castle and incredibly meticulous grounds overlooking the ocean. It was fun taking photos by myself, and then doing a sort of quickie tour of the inside of the castle – though no photos possible there. I met up with the others and then they took me to Royal Dornoch Golf Club, and Linda stayed at the castle to go down to the beach to look for fossils. I met up with my caddie and they let me head out in front of a group on my own. It was drizzly, but not uncomfortable. After about five holes we ended up combining with a couple from the States to finish our round. It was a challenging course, but frankly not as difficult as I imagined. During the round my caddie asked me how I was getting back to Invergordon and I said “By cab.” “No you’re not,” he said – “There are no cabs here on the weekend.” So he called his girlfriend, who looked up the bus schedule and found the time of the last bus out of Dornoch back to Invergordon. Whew! I finished my round with about 20 minutes to spare and then walked to the bus stop. I caught the bus and enjoyed watching the local scenery on my way home. I got off in Invergordon and walked around he town to take some photos. It was unusual in that some of the buildings had large murals painted on them. Then I walked back to the ship and met up with Linda in the room. She had a good old time looking for fossils, then walked to the local fossil/rock shop, and then got a ride back to the ship. We followed our regular routine of meeting Win and Becky for drinks, then off to dinner.
July 7: Kirkwall, Orkney Archipelago
Once again, we meet our pre-arranged driver and head out – though it’s rather inclement weather. We go to the Ring of Brodnar and walk around. Then to the Standing Stones of Stenness. Very fascinating. We go to a small museum, but it’s not that interesting. We end up back in Kirkwall to walk around. We go to the St. Magnus Cathedral with an old cemetery adjoining. In fact there are a number of headstones built into the inside walls of the cathedral. Then we walked back to the ship.
July 8: Portree and the Isle of Skye
This is the stop I am most looking forward to - and it doesn’t disappoint. We again meet our pre-arranged driver (thank you, Becky!!) and we’re off. The sky is overcast, but, hey, it’s not raining, so good enough. It is simply magnificent in its beauty. First, rolling hills replete with sheep, then more mountainous, then rocky cliffs and plateaus. Quite majestic. We stop periodically to take photos. What great fun!
Then it’s back to the ship. Drinks and dinner…
July 9: Tobermory, Scotland
We stop and anchor in the harbor this time, so we take the tender to shore. Tobermory is a small little town and we haven’t booked any sort of excursion today. On shore we see an adventure store tent with a sale, where we land and get some boots and jackets. Then we walked around town a bit. The local distillery tour was backed up, so we booted that as well. After a small walk around town, we get the tender back to the ship. Rest up. Drinks and dinner…
July 10: Portrush, Ireland and the Antrim Coast
I am excited about this stop. We are doing something separate from Win and Becky and we have not pre-arranged anything. As luck would have it, one of the cabs/drivers waiting nearby was very knowledgeable of local fossils and the area in general. Dave was simply perfect! Off we headed to White Park Beach. We parked and he showed us the country’s smallest church St. Gobban’s, and then we walked along the beach, where he showed us fossils in the cliffs. He then took Linda into some caves where artifacts had been found dated over 5000 years ago. Linda was in heaven. Eventually we had enough of the beach and head back to the car. Then Dave made a few stops for us to see – first to Ballintroy Harbor, where some of the King of Throngs had been shot, then to a spot where we could see the famous Rope Bridge, then to the Dark Hedges, which I was planning on going to near the end of our Ireland trip. All wonderful. Anyway, then Dave stopped off at his house to get some fossils for us that he had in his own collection. Then back to the dock for a tender ride home. A wonderful day!!! Then drinks and dinner…
July 11: Isle of Man
We once again anchored and tendered into the dock at the Isle of Man. A much larger waterfront than the others, with a lot more old buildings. We walked around, but there really wasn’t much to see, so we eventually headed back to ship.
July 12: Dublin
We arrived in Dublin in the morning and checked out of the ship. We had transportation that took us to the O’Callaghan Davenport Hotel right in the heart of Dublin. We checked into our hotel, met up with Becky and Win and off we went. First to Trinity College, and to the Old Library, which is quite famous – and beautiful. Then into see the Book of Kells, an illuminated book of the Four Gospels, dated at 800 AD ( which we couldn’t photograph). Then we went to a store/café called Kilkenny, where upstairs they had wonderful coffees and pastries. Scones!!
Then Linda and I headed out Grafton Street, which is a pedestrian mall, then to St. Stephen’s Green, then the National Museum, which had a great focus on the early history of Ireland. Then finally we found the Museum of Natural History, which was basically and ode to taxidermy, with stuffed animals of every sort and species. Interesting, but not too overwhelming. Of course, all the school kids made it a little hectic. It was a full day, so we headed back to the hotel, met up with Win and Becky at a nearby pub called Ginger Man for a drink. Then we were off to a restaurant that had been recommended to us (Cliff TownHouse). Unfortunately, the service was simply terrible, though the food was okay. Then we walked back to our hotel and crashed.
July 13: Dublin: Day Two
After breakfast at the hotel, we got a taxi to Dublinia to se the Viking exhibit, which was fascinating. I guess the TV Series “Vikings” was not so far off…
From there we took off by foot to the Temple Bar area, which is full of colorful and flower-resplendent pubs, then we walked along he Quay along the River Liffey.
And found our way to the Jameson Distillery. I took the tour, while Becky and Linda and Win found other things to do at the distillery….Linda and I went back to Kilkenny and listened to some great music and Linda bought a necklace and earrings. Then it was back to the hotel for a rest. Then we met Becky for drinks and dinner across the street from the hotel at Kennedy’s. Good food. Then we bade goodbye to Becky (Win had left earlier) and headed off to dreamland – after we packed up for our trip across Ireland.
July 14: Off to the west coast of Ireland, The Burren, and the Cliffs of Moher
We set off early to get to the airport and get our rental car. Some delays, but eventually got out. Off we go to a beach Linda has gotten intel about from daughter Jenn regarding fossils. It’s drizzling, but not unmanageable. We do find some interesting rocks/fossils, but not the specific rock Jenn has given us coordinates for – but we get some good specimens. Then it’s off to the expressway heading west toward Galway. Just before Galway we turn south, get some lunch, then continue south through The Burren, which is this huge outcropping of rocks. Very beautiful. Then it was off to the Cliffs of Moher. As planned, we got there as a lot of the tour buses were leaving. Still, it was quite crowded – but still unbelievably gorgeous. Then we headed off down the Wild Atlantic Way, then inland through Limerick and into Adare, finding our way to the Dunraven Arms Hotel, checked in to the grand old hotel, changed, and made it across the street to the Wild Geese Restaurant. We had some great wine and a superb meal, simply superb.
July 15: The Dingle Peninsula
No rest for the wicked. After breakfast it’s off again, this time to see the Dingle Peninsula. We have great weather today, and, when we hit the coast we are blown away. It is majestic in every way, at every turn. One view is prettier than the last. The most frustrating thing was the narrow roads and not as many pull-offs as I’d like. But we find some – and have a great time shooting various aspects of the scene. At some point we made our way on even smaller roads – on the Slea Head Drive “option” and enjoyed every minute of it – though the narrow roads were a little nerve-racking. Then we navigated our way to Killarney, finding the International Hotel Killarney. This was the largest city we have gone into so far, so it was a little unnerving, and little difficult to find the hotel. It turns out there was a big horserace going on that night, so the streets were pretty crowded. Fortunately we found a parking space on the street, loaded up our luggage and headed in. Quickly we cleaned up, and headed down to the restaurants pub for some brew and stew, listening to the music playing in the room next door. Afterward, Linda had some craving for ice cream, so we went out for a walk, til we hit our destination of Murphy’s Ice Cream, where we had Whiskey Ice Cream! What else?? Then, once again, it’s crashing time….
July 16: The Ring of Kerry, and Cork
We had been warned to get our car out by 10 am, and when we go out, our car is surrounded by horse carts, as we are parked in their space. But no one gives us any grief, and we once again pack up the car and head out for the so-called Ring of Kerry. Unfortunately we are fighting for space with the tour buses – and it’s raining. In fact, the deeper we go on the “Ring” the harder the rain. By the time we’re going through mountain passes, it is so foggy and rainy we can barely see anything, much less take photos. And that was true the whole day. So we are glad to have seen the Ring, but no photographic keepsakes. Finally we get back on the “interstate” and make our way to Cork, where we will spend two, yes, two whole nights. We are staying at the Hayfield Manor Hotel, right next to the University, and we are pleasantly surprised to see a large gated entrance into the hotel grounds, then a magnificent old hotel – and valet parking. We drag our damp, tired carcasses into the beautiful lobby, are led to our room, and collapse. I head down to the spa area to soak in the outdoor hottub, lay on the chaise lounge by the indoor pool, read a magazine, and relax. It is WONDERFUL! Around 7 we go to the classic old bar for drinks. I decide to have a whiskey tasting. I love Jameson! Then we head into the hotel bistro for a delightful dinner.
July 17: Cork and Cobh
In the morning, we head out on foot, first through the beautiful campus of University College Cork, then further into town to the English Market, which has been around since the 1860s. We went upstairs and had cappuccinos and scones. Then we walked around the market for a while, taking photos and meeting folks. Great fun! Then we walked back to the hotel, got our car and headed out for Cobh. There we took in the Heritage Center, which presented the story of the immigrants who came to Cobh and left for America and other places. And of course, it was the last stop for the Titanic before it headed across the ocean to its final fate. Then we walked around Cobh a bit, seeing the pier where Titanic left. Then we drove back to the hotel in time for a late lunch, then massages. Great to take a little break before our next onslaught…We had another great dinner that night at the hotel restaurant.
July 18: From Cork, north to Galway City
Now it’s time to head north. So we get on one of the main highways and head to Galway. It’s another rainy day, so not much opportunity for photos. We get into Galway and it’s rainy there too. Quite frankly, we’re not used to “big cities,” so we’re a little disoriented, but find the hotel (Eyre Square Hotel) – but there’s no parking . So I had to temporarily park in the street while Linda ran in the rain to find where to park. Turns out it’s a couple of blocks away, so we have to schlep our luggage blocks in the rain. Not fun. We make it to our mediocre room, but make it out for a walk to the pedestrian street. Not much to see, but we did stop in to a local pub and listened to some Irish music, and then had lunch at a recommended place called Martine’s and have a great lunch. Then we stopped in to the Butler Chocolate store for some wonderful hot chocolate. Then back to the room for some R&R. However, the Dancing Divas were supposed to parade nearby (part of the Galway Arts Festival). I asked the hotel receptionist if they would cancel due to rain, and she looked at me like I was crazy. So out I went in the rain and watched the “ladies” under their umbrellas and shot some photos. Then ran back to the hotel. I then did some research on the Aran Islands, so I decided to try to fly there, and was still able to get seats the next day. And we were supposed to come back to Galway tomorrow night, but decided we didn’t want to do so. So we decided to wing it for tomorrow night. Then it’s time for dinner at the Pub.
July 19: Inishmore, Aran Islands, then to Westport
We pack up and head out to Connemara Airport, board, and fly a short trip to the Aran Island’s chief of three islands, Inishmore. It’s a beautiful day and we are excited to be going. After arrival, we decide to rent bicycles, then head out down the island’s spine. It’s a bit hard going uphill, but it IS beautiful. Great views all around and it’s quite easy to stop and take photos (the one and only time I can say this in Ireland!). As we go down the road, we see some people walking, some cycling, some in buses, some on horse carts – but it’s really not that crowded. We finally get to Dun Aonghasa, which is an old fort dating back to the Iron Age. Basically, it is three rings of piled stones up against some very high cliffs. We walk up the path to the fort - it was simply majestic. After a lot of photos, we get directions to another place called the WormHole, and cycle through some stone and mud paths past outcroppings of rocks and miles of rock fences. We get to a spot we think might be it, park our bikes and head out on foot over rocks and boulders, making our way to the Atlantic. When we get there it is truly wonderful! There are waves crashing against the cliffs, there are scores of tidal pools of various patterns and colors, there are large outcroppings of quartz, and the most amazing pock-marked surface in one spot. And we are the only ones here! Linda is busy looking for fossils and rocks, while I am constantly shooting.
Then we make our way back to the bike rental shop, stopping along the way for more shots. We do make it back okay, though it has been an arduous day – and my butt hurts! We turn in our bikes, and go into a pub (“The American Bar”) for some Stew and brew. On the TV is a Gaelic football game, which is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. It looks like a cross between soccer and rugby and American football. Lots of cheering in the pub. Fun stuff. Then it’s time to get the bus back to the airfield, board, and then fly back to the mainland. We get in our car and head off The Wild Atlantic Way through County Galway, through the Connemera National Park, to Clifden, then north into County Mayo on to Westport. We are unable to get into the hotel we have the next night, so we finally get a room at the Westport Coast Hotel on the harbor, check in, then get a cab to the town centre to a great little restaurant called Sage. We get our small table, have some wine and a wonderful meal. We then walked a bit to a place recommended to hear some music. It’s really crowded, but fun, though I’m noticing the trend – one song, much drinking, another song. After a bit, we are lucky to catch our same cab driver and then back to the hotel. Time to crash!
July 20: Through County Mayo, then Sligo
From Westport, we head along the Wild Atlantic Way along the coast, then up to the Mullet Peninsula. We turn north to Bangor, the take off on the smaller roads to the tip of the Mullet Peninsula. There we find Dun na mBo, which is another wormhole and cliffs. Once again we find ourselves all by ourselves on some isolated road. But it also again – incredible. Wonderful geologic formations, cliffs with waves, etc.
Then Linda wants to continue on up this gravel road to see where it leads. We do so, literally to its end. We get out and look out over the sheep and pastures and cliffs, with Eagle Island in the background. Then it’s time to turn around and continue north toward Sligo. We see another spot, Ceann Lorais (Erris Head), park and walk up along the cliff. Suddenly I see a wonderful full rainbow with the cliffs as a background. Amazing!! Then it’s back in the car and off on N59 to Sligo and check into the Clarion Hotel, which looks like a castle (actually an old mental hospital!). It’s late so we have to eat what we can find in the bar, but it’s been a long – and great – day.
July 21: Sligo Golf Club, Fossil-hunting in Streedagh with Auriel
I head out early to Rosses Point, the Championship course at County Sligo Golf Club. It’s raining, but that’s the way it is. They let me go out early, so have a grand ole time on the course. Eventually, the rain even stops and we complete the round. Quite frankly, it IS beautiful, but not as challenging as I thought it would be. I dry off in the dressing room, change into some things more comfortable, and I’m off. I stop almost immediately at a sculpture similar to the one in Savannah of a woman with her arms outstretched overlooking the small harbor at Rosses Point. Then, shortly thereafter, there’s an old grounded boat that looks interesting to photograph. Then it’s back to the hotel, where I wait in the hotel lobby for Linda. Finally she arrives and we’re off north. We are finding our way to Donegal and the exquisite Solis Lough Eske Castle. We are following signs to the hotel, and the narrow, winding road seems to go on forever. On and on, and finally we get to the hotel. Incredibly beautiful. We check in, are escorted to our room and collapse. Though the lake (lough) is nearby, we are simply too tired to do anything. After some cleanup and rest, we go to the hotel restaurant and have a delicious meal.
July 22: County Donegal: Sligo to Dunfanaghy
We head out after breakfast along the Wild Atlantic Way. Linda is excited to see the Slieve League Mountains, which are a continuation of the Appalachian Mountains in the US – separated by an ocean and a gazillion years. It is beautiful. We stop at a small parking lot and get ready to park, but we see a car open the gate and drive up the hill, so we do likewise. Good thing – it was quite a hike uphill. So we get to a smaller spot, park, and start walking up the hill. It’s quite a hike and Linda is already quite on her way, so I’m forced to continue. There are wonderful views all along the way – not to mention on top. We take a selfie and then head down. Then we continue up the Wild Atlantic Way, through the Glenveagh National Park, and find our little hotel in Dunfanaghy – the Old Mill. It’s a beautiful little inn/restaurant overlooking the little bay. But before we stop for good we decide to take in the Horn Head Peninsula, which was pretty but not overwhelming – except for the narrow roads. We settle in, then down to restaurant for dinner. Delicious!
July 23: From Donegal into Northern Ireland: the Glens of Antrim
After a lovely breakfast, we continue on our way on more more narrow winding roads to the Fanad Peninsula. There is a gorgeous white lighthouse set right against the cliffs. We park and then walk out to the cliffs to see the sights and take photos. It’s a beautiful day and a beautiful sight. Then I spot some fishing rods coming out of the rocks, and see a couple of fishermen, down among the rocks casting into the surf.
We decide then not to do the Malin Peninsula, and continue on toward Giant’s Causeway. We have tried to schedule this so we miss the Tour Buses at the Causeway, so we first go to Bushmill Distillery for a tour. It’s similar to Jameson, of course, but still interesting – and the tasting at the end is VERY nice. Linda meets me at the “bar” and then to the gift shop where we get a fifth of the 12 year old stuff – then it’s off to the Causeway.
By the time we walk down to the actual rocks, there is not an overwhelming amount of folks, so I can get some shots without them in it. Plus I got some great photos of Linda by herself. The Causeway is an incredible rock formation of basalt columns. After hanging out there for a while, we walk back uphill to our car, then head east through the Glens of Antrim, which is a series of wonderful rolling hills full of green pastures and sheep, with the ocean to the north and west. We meander our way along the coast to the little town of Carnlough, where we find our hotel right on the main drag, and park across the street. We are spending two nights here, so it is a good break before our final trek to Dublin. We eat at the hotel and collapse once again.
July 24: Royal Portrush Golf Club, Antrim Coast
I rise up early and drive to Portrush for my 10 am tee time at Royal Portrush Golf Club. I am paired with a gentleman from Hattiesburg, Mississippi. It’s drizzling and cool, but it’s a beautiful course. And challenging. About halfway through, the rain stops and it’s a glorious day. I do well on some holes – and not so well on others. But it is great fun. I clean up a bit and head out. I stop at a couple of spots to shoot that Dave the cabbie took us to earlier (White Park Beach, Dunluce Castle, Rope Bridge), and then a spot I saw coming in located in Ballycastle. Turns out it’s an old friary called Bonamargy dating back to around 1500. Then I continue down the coast back to Carnlough, finding Linda at the hotel. She has taken the day to rest up and re-group. After cleaning up and organizing stuff, we head out down to the car and drive back up the coast to a restaurant my caddie recommended in Cushendall (Harry’s). We have a nice glass of wine and a great little meal. Then it’s a drive back to the hotel. It’s a beautiful drive along the coast. Then we park and walk up the street to get some ice cream. Then it’s time to pack up everything and load up the car for our trip to Dublin.
July 25: Antrim Coast, Belfast, Dublin
After breakfast we head south and we make it into Belfast and find our way to the old market – St. George’s Market. We walk around and get something to eat and drink, and get some Irish chocolate to bring to family back home. Then it’s off to the Titanic Experience. This is the site where the Titanic was built and launched. It’s a great exhibit, with real artifacts, and models of rooms. We board a small “car” that takes us through the construction of the ship. It’s a really thorough and cool exhibit, and we’re glad we have done it. Then we head out to find the oldest building in Belfast – McHugh’s Pub. It’s a cool little spot where we find a table, have a pint and a great bowl of stew. Then it’s back on the road and we decide to go along the coastal route. It’s a mistake – our first one of the trip – in that it is incredibly crowded, people doing their summer beach thing. Seems like every one from Belfast is there. We do run into a horse show along the street, and stop briefly to watch. Then we get back on the main highway south. This concludes our tour of Ireland, and now it’s time to get to Dublin for our trip home. We find our hotel (Holiday Inn), park in the garage, and bring in some few necessary items and clean up before having dinner at the Touzai Restaurant next door at the Crown Plaza.
July 26: Back to the good ole USA
We get up early and finish packing up our car. Thankfully, it’s in a garage because it’s really raining. The car, which has been having battery problems, barely starts (for the first time). We make our way to the airport and then off to the rental car lot. Then about 50 yards from the entrance, our car stops dead. I get out to push it and fortunately the car behind us is the Avis (our agency) shuttle. He gets out and helps me push. We get in and do the paperwork, then it’s off to the airport. We check in uneventfully and get to the Delta Lunge. They tell us they’ll get us when it’s time. We get into our stuff and eventually I notice it’s getting to be late. They tell us we should have gone a long time ago. We run to the pre-passport area where there is a long, long line. Fortunately we have Global Travel so we are able to bypass all that. Then we get to our concourse and realize our gate is at the very end. We are running all the way – and make it to our gate just as they are closing the doors! Unbelievable. But we get to our seats and, yes, collapse – still one more time.
It’s been a great trip. The people have been wonderful. The food has been delicious. The sights have been as green as I imagined they would, and more breath-taking than I ever could have imagined. At the same time it has been extremely stressful, what with all the driving, and moving from one hotel to the next, day after day. But we will be glad to get home to Sea Island….I need a vacation!!