January 2011
Well, we have safely landed back in Savannah after our amazing trip. We have certainly experienced many highs and lows, culturally, emotionally, and physically. Not to mention the freezing weather in both the Sahara and Madrid, and the heat of Mali. Morocco was indeed magical, from the mazes in the medinas, to the expanse of the Sahara, from the snow-covered mountains to the dry sandy fossil regions. And we have brought back some wonderful items for our collection – and some clothing that will definitely stand out in Savannah (wait til you see my bright yellow baboushkas!).
Mali was cathartic. The cities we stayed in were almost overwhelming, from the traffic to the dirt, raw sewerage to just the number of people, all trying to survive. Once outside the cities, it was almost surreal – colorfully dressed folks going about their daily tasks, with their villages so clean – except that all surfaces were dirt. Homes were made out of mud, handmade bricks, straw, etc. Transportation was basic – burro-driven carts, bicycles, and just plain walking – with much carried on top of the head. We saw few able-bodied men in the villages, as they were away working, in cities, on farms, ranching, fishing. The Malians are an extremely fastidious people, and it seemed the women and girls were constantly washing in the rivers- their clothes, their kitchen items, and themselves. It was amusing to hear the kids say babu to us on our visits – thinking it was some sort of greeting – only to learn it meant “white person.” Oh, well, I guess we did sorta stand out…Anyway, that’s what I call Linda now…
I have always loved taking photos in markets, and now I have seen the most basic and authentic. Weekly markets where people bring their goods and leave with theirbasic needs. On our last day in Mali we saw people packed onto and hanging off buses, with the racks on top overflowing with purchases, be they large sacks of grain, or furniture, or goats, sheep, and chickens. Amazing.
We had a wonderful boat trip on the Bani and Niger Rivers, visiting some villages along the way, and having a delightful fresh fish meal aboard. Certainly the highlight of the trip was the visit to Dogon country, where Dogon natives live much like they have for centuries, carving out an existence, literally, on the side of cliffs. Every few years they perform a dance to release the spirits of the recently departed, and we were honored to see such a performance.
Perhaps the most unusual experience was in a Dogon village that had a small pond full of crocodiles, to whom they sacrificed animals. We got to watch a rooster make his contribution to the well-being on one the large crocs. Then it was time for our lunch – though we passed on the chicken…And one of the most moving was running across a family migrating from its village to the city to try to make it there – with all their possessions loaded on to their two burros (including children, kid goats and chickens) and piled high on their heads.
And we had a wonderful albeit short visit in Madrid. What a beautiful city! We had some delightful tapas and also roast pig, not to mention some of the world’s best ham. And seeing Picasso’s Guernica at Reina Sofia Museum was a highlight. And of course, we just HAD to go the Anthropology Museum and Archeological Museum (if there are bones to be found, Linda will find them…). We definitely would love to return someday soon. The only problem I had was that, just as I had become comfortable speaking my very limited French in Morocco and Mali, we had to switch to Spanish. Linda got a kick out of my saying “merci” to the amused Spaniards…
I have taken literally thousands of photos. I have posted our favorite ones on my website (www.LindsleyPhotos.com). For the faint-hearted, I have included a “best of Mali”; for those who want a fuller impact, I invite you to peruse all the pages. Personal photos (mostly of Linda) are now posted on my personal site (www.Lindsleymania.com), on the page entitled Bill&Linda’s Fun 2011.
We look forward to re-connecting with everyone. It will be good to be back in our home and enjoy so many things we take for granted – like hot water, soft towels, indoor plumbing, fresh water from the tap, malaria-free mosquitoes, etc. Once you visit a country like Mali, you can appreciate how richly blessed we all are here in the old US of A. But people are the same everywhere, and we bring back some wonderful memories of interactions with people both the same as – and very different from - us.
Love to all,
Bill